2009 Weave of the week #29: Premiere Vision New York

"Magnified tweed"

"Magnified tweed"

It’s mid-July, but I’m into fall — fall 2010, that is — because it’s time for me to start thinking about new designs for fall/winter 2010/2011.  So last week I headed over to the Première Vision New York show to start researching colors and fabrics.

Première Vision New York is a spinoff from the much larger,  more comprehensive Première Vision textile show that is held twice a year in Paris, and last week an international group of weaving mills gathered in New York to show — and, they hoped, to sell — their newest fabrics to fashion professionals.

The exhibitors’ booths themselves are restricted to fabric buyers, so I didn’t see the collections, but the rest of us do have free access to the color wall —

Photo by Premiere Vision New York

Photo by Premiere Vision New York

— and the fabric forum.

Photo by Premiere Vision New York

Photo by Premiere Vision New York

Based on what I saw at the show, I chose one of my own designs to feature this week. The large houndstooth check shown above neatly represents some of the 2010 trends and colors, even though I designed it in 2005.

For years I  have ridiculed the pretentious language that trend forecasters use, and this year’s show had its share of the odd and the nonsensical. The fabrics in the forum were arranged in categories that sometimes made sense (“winter flowers”) and sometimes didn’t (“sullied refinement”?).  My houndstooth check design fits into the forecasters’ “augmented” category, because it is woven with lofty woolen-spun two-ply cashmere; the “magnified tweeds” category, for obvious reasons; and the “exaggerated” category, because of its scale and longish floats — and even though I wouldn’t call it “languid,” it is both soft and warm.

Applying some of the color names used in the show, my sample’s warp colors are roughly equivalent to the forecasters’ “brown sugar” and “eggplant leather,” and the weft colors to “anti-rust” and “heart of night.” The overheated language may sound silly, but over many seasons I have come to appreciate how useful fanciful language can be in setting my mood and even in re-focusing my mind. Besides, after spending way too much time trying to decide whether to call a scarf color “lipstick” or “scarlet,” I know how ga-ga one can get matching words to colors oranges.

I was there on the first day and Première Vision felt crowded, but that could have been because,  as Women’s Wear Daily reported last week, “weak economic conditions have already taken a heavy toll on textile shows around the world … As a result, buyers will have fewer shows and exhibitors to survey.”

Still,  it was nice to meet old friends, and to focus on fabrics and colors and silly names for a couple of hours, (and then blog about it), instead of focusing on … well, everything else.

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2 Responses

  1. Sometimes I wish I lived a rural life too — and maybe someday I will — but down deep I’m a “city mouse.”

    Thanks, glad you like the HOUNDStooth : )

    Fern

  2. I love that houndstooth fabric you designed! I’m a fan of houndstooth in general…and yours in particular!

    I love my rural life in NH, but sometimes your posts make me wish I was in NY! (I know…I could be….it’s not that far physically!)

    Sue

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