2008 Weave of the week #18: An interpretation



This week’s weave of the week is one of my own designs, from when I was a fabric designer in the New York garment industry.

It sounds kind of like a reality show challenge: Take a 2″ x 2-1/2″ fragment of an unidentified woolen handknit (inset above) and design a woven cotton fabric that looks like it and that can be mass-produced on industrial power looms. (NB: This isn’t what is known as a “knockoff,”  which is as exact a copy of an original as possible. A redesign like this is called an “interpretation.” )

In interpreting this design I tried to keep the colors, the size of the repeat, and the two-colored flower motif, as close to the original as I could, using my company’s 24/2 cotton yarn, so I used a supplementary warp to make the flowers, tabby for the in-between stripes, and a 3/1″satin” weave to outline the stripes. A fashion designer bought the interpretation after seeing a handwoven sample made from my design. The finished commercial fabric is shown above.

You might have bought a garment made out of this fabric in the mid-1970s, when ethnically inspired designs were hot. I designed quite a few such fabrics, and Wollman Industries — the Pennsylvania-based mill that I worked for at the time — sold a lot of them to American apparel companies, as did other domestic mills. (That was when it was still possible to buy clothing that had been made in the USA from beginning to end  — from raw material to yarn to fabric to finished garment.)


3 Responses

  1. Sure, sure. Anytime. I might even subscribe! :3 Gotta support, thread;-)

  2. Thanks for looking and commenting, down2thethread.

  3. Good work!
    You got a comment.

    Check out my blog sometime :3

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